Un recorrido por Sewell en sus 10 años como Patrimonio de la Humanidad
Chile tiene seis sitios declarados Patrimonio de la Humanidad por la Unesco: el Parque Nacional Rapa Nui, las Iglesias de Chiloé, el barrio histórico de Valparaíso, las Oficinas Salitreras de Humberstone y Santa Laura, el Camino del Inca Qhapaq Ñan y Sewell.
Esta última es una ciudad minera que fue construida en 1905 en la Cordillera de Los Andes, a más de 2.100 m.s.n.m., para los trabajadores de la Mina El Teniente, la mina de cobre subterránea más grande del mundo ubicada a 60 kilómetros de Rancagua.
La particular ubicación de Sewell hizo que fuera un exponente de las “ciudades industriales” que se construyeron en lugares remotos del mundo a inicios del siglo XX y que fue uno de los principales motivos para ser reconocida como patrimonio mundial.
Desde la obtención de esta declaratoria, ya han pasado 10 años. Por esto, en el contexto de su 10º aniversario, fuimos a recorrerla para descubrir su historia, entrar a sus edificios e imaginar cómo era la vida en la “ciudad de las escaleras”.
Un poco de historia
Antes de recorrer esta ciudad minera, es imposible que no llame la atención el imponente Cerro Negro donde está construida y que haga más difícil imaginar cómo era vivir aquí.
Sin embargo, una parte de esto se puede conocer con el video “Recuerdos de El Teniente de 1919”, que muestra que en las calles, o mejor dicho en las escaleras, porque en Sewell son pocos los lugares planos, convivían estadounidenses con chilenos.
Esto ocurrió porque un decreto del Ministerio de Hacienda le entregó la explotación de la mina a la empresa estadounidense Braden Copper Company, perteneciente a William Brader, quien empezó a conformarla en 1904.
Tras esto, el entonces campamento El Molino pasó a llamarse Sewell, en honor a Barton Sewell, uno de los socios y primer presidente de la compañía, dejando atrás décadas de abandono. Además, comenzaron a levantarse numerosos edificios, llegando a más de 500 según los registros, para acoger a los 15 mil habitantes que tuvo este lugar, entre estadounidenses y chilenos.
El costo de la vida era bastante privilegiado porque la educación, la salud y las viviendas eran completamente gratuitas para todos. No obstante, la población estaba estructurada en tres roles: A, para los estadounidenses; B, empleados chilenos, y C, obreros.
Una ciudad detenida en el tiempo
La segmentación de la población determinó que los edificios fueran clasificados según los mencionados roles. En donde esto queda más claro es en El Teniente Club, construido en 1925 para que los estadounidenses compartieran eventos sociales, juegos de salón y hasta una piscina en el subterráneo. Los chilenos solo podían entrar si es que iban como acompañantes de “un gringo” o simplemente si lo hacían a escondidas.
No obstante, con el proceso de nacionalización del cobre (1964-1971), la historia cambió. El edificio pasó a llamarse El Minero y todos los sewellinos pudieron entrar. Actualmente, está en muy buen estado, porque entre el 2007 y 2013 fue restaurado por la Fundación Sewell. Incluso, funciona como un Centro de Eventos.
Al ingresar a otro edificio de habitaciones de obreros, el panorama es completamente diferente porque se mantiene intacto desde que fue abandonado en los ’70. Por esto, se pueden ver daños en la pintura y en las maderas nativas que no han sido intervenidas para mantener los espacios originales.
Si bien hoy en día Sewell es un lugar dedicado principalmente a los recorridos patrimoniales, aún conserva un edificio en funcionamiento para diversas labores mineras, lo que explica que en las escaleras uno se pueda topar con trabajadores.
Muy cerca está el edificio de los solteros conocido como “las camas calientes”. A diferencia de los muchos pueden pensar, lo que explica este apodo era que cada pieza tenía más obreros que camas, entonces cuando uno llegaba a dormir, empezaba el turno del otro con quien compartía la cama que no alcanzaba a enfriarse.
Continuando con el recorrido, siempre a través de escaleras, se puede llegar al hospital de Sewell, el único construido en hormigón -todos los demás edificios son de madera- y que en su época fue considerado el más moderno de Latinoamérica. También se puede entrar a la iglesia, un salón de bowling y ver el teatro, entre otros lugares.
“La tragedia del humo”
Con este nombre es como se conoce lo que ocurrió el 19 de junio de 1945. Ese día, 355 trabajadores murieron asfixiados al inhalar monóxido de carbono que ingresó a los túneles producto de un incendio en uno de los accesos a la mina. A esto se sumó que en la época las condiciones de ventilación no eran las mejores.
Esta tragedia es considerada una de las más grandes en la minería a nivel mundial. En Chile, se decretó duelo nacional durante tres días y las mujeres que perdieron a sus maridos fueron trasladadas a Rancagua en donde se les intentó compensar con la entrega de una casa. Hoy en día, este lugar es apodado la Población las Viudas y en ella aún viven algunas de las esposas.
Este episodio negro de la historia de Sewell está registrado en la prensa de esos días y en el cuadro del pintor rancagüino, Claudio Goycoolea, quien pintó “Tragedia del Humo, Testimonio de una Época” que está en uno de los edificios.
Plaza Morgan, el principal espacio público de Sewell
El recorrido termina en la Plaza Morgan, el punto de encuentro característico de Sewell hasta donde los adultos iban de compras y los niños jugaban a la pelota, aprovechando lo plano que es el lugar. En el año 2000 fue restaurada como parte de un Plan de Conservación de la ciudad minera.
En la misma plaza está el edificio de la Escuela Industrial que cuenta con el Museo de la Gran Minería del Cobre. En su interior hay varias salas que exhiben diversos minerales, objetos de la industria minera, tanto actuales como pasados, la historia de la minería en Chile y la vida cotidiana en Sewell.
A solo unos metros de la plaza estaba la estación del tren que en 5 horas conectaba esta ciudad minera con Rancagua, pero que dejó de funcionar a fines de los ’70.
En ese momento se inició la “Operación Valle”, un proceso de traslado de los trabajadores hasta Rancagua y sus alrededores porque el Estado no podía costear el funcionamiento de la ciudad, lo que marcó el despoblamiento definitivo de Sewell en los ’80.
Años más tarde, en 1998, el Consejo de Monumentos Nacionales (CMN) declaró a Sewell como Monumento Nacional en la categoría de Zona Típica.
Según consta en la declaratoria, entre los valores que lo hacen un lugar único destaca la localización de los edificios en relación al Cerro Negro, que las vías interiores son exclusivamente peatonales y que edificios de tres y otros de cuatro pisos fueron construidos completamente en madera, etc.
Además, esta declaratoria se realizó cuando la ciudad minera integraba la Lista Tentativa de Bienes Culturales, etapa previa para la evaluación de su inscripción como Sitio de Patrimonio Mundial de la Unesco, lo que se concretó en 2006.
Para navegar por nuestra galería de fotos, haz click sobre ellas.
Por motivos de seguridad, para visitar Sewell es necesario coordinar un traslado (desde Rancagua o Santiago) y un recorrido guiado porque está en terrenos donde hay faenas mineras en funcionamiento. Para más información te recomendamos visitar el sitio de la Fundación Sewell.
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